Before you start make sure that you have the following tools:
Waxed linen thread, sinew or dental floss. I used waxed linen thread.
Plier and awl, at least two leather needles or thicker embroidery needles, scalpel and a tracing wheel.
For punching (or rather make the pattern in the leather) I used a “falsben” (bone folder?) and a bone awl. I also had diffrent dental tools those aren´t necessary
. I was lucky since my father used to do knifes and had all the tools I needed.
We started by drawing our foot and shape the sole on a piece of paper, cuted it out and used it as template and draw six soles each on the leather that I & W had bought. Three right footed soles, three left footed solea and two heel pieces (one right and one left)
2. At home I made a paper template for the pieces that should hold the sole around my feet and tried it out so that it would fit before I cutted out the pieces. The template should be flipped after drawing two of the pieces so that you get two “with the long strip to the right and two with the long strip to the left”. All in all you should have four pieces.
3. Cut the leather out.
4. Use the tracing wheel to mark up were your stitches are going to be on the upper sole.
5. On the under sole about 5 mm from the edge do a small cut with the scalpel all the way round the sole. Watch out so you don´t make it to deep! I used the tracing wheel to mark up where the cut should go.
6. Make sure the edges on all three pieces are in line and turn the one of the soles so both the upper and the under part of the sole has the upper part with there markings on out.
7. Use the awl to make holes. I did try to make all the holes at ones first, that cost me alot of time because the leather “heals”. So I suggest you to do one hole, stitch it and then do the next hole.
8. Start the stitching by threading two needles. Do a knot on each end. Do a stich from one direction and make sure the knot stays in the first hole in the sole, Take the other needle and do the same procedure from the other side. Pull in both the threads and make sure they stay in place.
9. Do a new hole and repeat the procedure. This is called a skommakarsöm in swedish (double stitch in english ?). After ever stitch it is important that you pull the threads so tha stitch gets tighted! In the bottom sole the thread and stitch should “disapper” in to the cut you did earlier.
10. Mark where you are supposed to stitch on the “foot grabber pieces” and when you reach the mark fit the piece in and stitch them to there places.
11. Put in the heel piece last and stitch it to place.
12. I choose to put on a extra little piece of leather until the lather has stretched after being used for a while. I don´t know if I ever need to remove it but if so I prepared for that and did holes in the leather sp that they could be easily removed.
13. Now it´s time to make the pattern. I guess that they can be done before stitching them together but since I haven´t done this before I didn´t dare to do the pattern before. I used the bone awl to draw the pattern on the leather, if you are unsure about drawing you can use a sketching pen instead. I also used a little scrab and tried the technique first
15. Use the boe folder as a pen and push the leather down. I had to repeat both the pushing and the weting many times. You can see the tools I used on this picture and here you can also see that I removed the little extra piece for stitching it back on later.
16. Polish the edges with the bone folder.
17. Make holes in the sides and on the extra piece. Make sure that you do the same amount of holes on each side!
18. Stitch the pieces on one side with double stitch or with cross stitch
19. Lace the holes on the other side of the extra piece with one thread/string and take a new one for lacing the big pieces together. I still haven´t figured out what type of string to use so for now waxed linen thread haft to due.
20. Last but not least I treated my pattens with Dr Martens wonder balm